Repairs to hull floor

Hi folks

I've checked most topics, so apologies if this has been answered.

I've just acquired a wooden 1970's mirror in generally good condition, it's been stored in garage for several years. The floor has a small amount of flex, but no more than you'd expect from 5mm ply!!!

I've spent the last two weeks replacing blocks, halyards, sheets, straps etc.... & finally got the boat in the water this weekend.

When we returned to dry land I noticed quite a bit of water in the boat and spotted a couple of 'possible' small leaks.

1. Footrest has come away on one side and was very wet when pressed.

2. One of the batons on the floor (running fore to aft, I presume for strength and to help with footholds) has also come loose in the middle and lifted from the floor - a small amount of varnish had bubbled.

My question is how can I make a good temporary repair, to see me through the season? I'm going to strip the hull back to wood and epoxy, re-paint/varnish during the winter, but want to sail and race this season!!

Really weird facing backwards during tack and gybe!!!!!!

62816inBerlin's picture

Thickened epoxy is good for gluing and filling once the material is dry.
I eliminated the "footrest" from Puffin years ago after discovering rot underneath it. As only the upper layers of ply were affected, I glued in two plywood patches to help spread the load. In later years, the plywood next to the floor battens also developed cracking and I put another two patches inside (can be seen in the pictures of the thread on the centreboard case: http://forum.mirrordiscussforum.org/node/94 ).
For small leaks where there may be internal cracking of the middle ply layer, I inject slightly thickened epoxy resin with the aid of a thick hypodermic needle (as I said before, my pharmacist must think I'm a junkie or something).
I'd place the boat on the ground and then use a heavy weight to keep the batten pressed down while the epoxy is setting.
Hope this is a bit helpful.

Thanks for that.

I've got some West System epoxy (105/205) and some filler. Do you think this would do?

Could be a strange conversation with the pharmacist!!

curlew's picture

Regarding facing aft when tacking, it is quite OK to face forward if you want to. Just pass the tiller behind your back. I always do it this way.
Incidentally, regarding gybing, I tried pulling the boom central and then slowly letting it out on the new side, and it works safely without any skill being required!
david