Rudder angle- Pivot Point - Downhaul

Evening all
I read somewhere that on some boats the rudder angle is incorrect due to an incorrect pivot point position. This didn't concern me until i 'accidentally' aqcuired another mirror of a similar vintage (61xxx) which upon inspection allows the rudder to get to a more vertical position.
On Tinker, the rudder, when lowered, sits with the bottom edge pretty much horizontal (the blade canted rearward with the leading edge raked back) but the ealier one lowers further than this such that the leading edge approaches vertical.

Is there a good image of the correct lowered angle/pivot point position? Has this changed over the years?

Also, after reading about the releasable cleat designed for rudder downhauls, i think this would be a good mod for Tinker to replace the shock cord, has anyone done this mod on a Mirror and if so some photos of the installation would be very useful.

I am also rather keen on having a go at making a laminated rudder blade at some point but that can wait for now.

Anyway 61xxx (sorry Gernot, i will get that number for you!) came with a combi trailer, which was the main reason for her aqcuistion, but i am loathed to part with her so for now, she is a bit of a back burner project as she needs a fair bit of ply and hardwood work having been stored upside down in a field for a few years. But maybe something i can work on with my son in a year or so.



curlew's picture

Sorry john I can't quite remember the standard rudder as I made a new laminated one which is a thick aerofoil. On my rudder I was careful to obtain a vertical leading edge and the tiller is neutral. I also made a big long tiller with better fixing. I think the blade hits the lower pintle so you might ned to adjust the shape of the blade at that area.
I use an elastic downhaul but the secret is that the elastic must be very powerful and very long. When the rudder kicks up the elastic must be long enough so it is not strained. The percentage stretch should not exceed 100%. I also improved the fixing of the elastic on the blade by using a hole in the blade to secure a piece of line having a knot. I also use the Huntingford Helm Impeder on the tiller, which is indispensable. I also changed the pintles for Seasure ones, which are the strongest you can get.

Tinker62720's picture

Thanks David, i did see Curlew's on one of your YouTube videos, i will take both of the blades apart and compare all the parts. The earlier one seems to drop further so if i do make one, i'll probably use that one as a template as long as the other parts match!
Thanks for the tips in the elastics. Do you recommend a particular type? And would you use the same for yard/gaff attachment?