Mirror Refurb down in South Africa

Hello Guys

New to the forum and to Mirror Sailing, but not sailing in general (Sonnet Dinghy; Hobie 14 turbo; fireball)

I am collecting an old 1972 Mirror next week that would be my project for the next couple of months. I am use to restoring old boats, my last was a 1973 Fireball in bad shape.

As all boats are different, I think the Mirror forum/crowd will be able to assist me best since they know the boats by heart.

Here is a list of what needs to be done, in no particular order:

1. Redo the patch (15cmx25cm)on the hull with a scarf joint (1:7) and fiberglass. Current patch is just wood screwed and glued over the hole.
2. If any wood is rotten, replace
3. Sand hull and repaing
4. Sand interior and revarnish
5. Go sailing

I will upload photos as soon as the boat is here so you can see.

I have read on a few post in forums that Mirror is a bit more flexible and so a 1Part paint will be better than a 2 part paint (used 2part on the fireball). Is this true??

Feel free to comment and ESPECIALLY give advice as I go along

Excited to get the Mighty Mirror refurbed and sailing

Good luck on restoring your newly acquired Mirror. I am sure many people on this forum will have good information for you in this project.
Welcome to the Forum.

Personally I would prefer two part epoxy paint. That is what I have on the outside of my hull.
Pete

sail_and_oar's picture

The holes I have repaired properly in my hull have all been done with this process;

Cut away the splinters to form a square or rectangular hole.

Chamfer the edges of the hole 1 inch (25mm) all the way round.

Cut a piece of 5mm marine ply 2 inches longer and 2 inches wider than the hole as the patch.

Chamfer the edges of the patch 1 inch all the way round.

The patch should fit the hole nicely - hopefully

Glue it in place with epoxy resin. If the fit of the patch is a bit iffy thickening the resin can help

If the area to be repaired is curved getting the patch to sit in there nicely can be difficult.

I prefer to give epoxy a few days to go off properly before painting, up to a week in cold weather.

As an alternative I think it is OK to chamfer the edges of the hole as described above, arrange a backing and mould fibreglass into the hole using epoxy resin. It's a bodge but probably better than using sub standard ply.

I dont think a 7 to 1 is essential for this sort of application but it's easy enough to increase the chamfer to 35 mm.

The Mirror is built from 5mm ply.

I have found the part which flexes to the extent where paint adhesion becomes a problem is the cockpit floor.

Cliff

PuffinInTegel's picture

From the other boats you've sailed, you should be comfortable with a Mirror.
The classic restoration story is on the "wooden boat forum":
(http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?79026-An-update-on-The-Mighty...) .
Quite a lot of links to other peoples' experience in our "repairs and maintenance" section.

Wishing you success.

Gernot H.

smilicus's picture

Hello Guys

Thank you for the advice and sure i will thank you again many times before the refurb is done. Collecting the boat early next week, so will then post pictures.

Good to hear a 1:5 scarf joint will work.

Take care

J

smilicus's picture

Collected the Mirror last night. Here is an initial picture of the boat. Will take more detailed photos later. Luckily all the rigging is still in working order , so the initial refurb cost will not be to high.

On my fireball I had to re-do a lot of the rigging, blocks, etc. and it got quite costly.

First order of business - Sanding

Smilicus's boat

PuffinInTegel's picture

I have edited your mail to show the picture. Unfortunately you have to use the "native" html image tag to show your pictures here. Instructions are at :
http://forum.mirrordiscussforum.org/node/35
Your boat looks in good shape, I see no dark spots in the brightwork. Take a piece of wood or a tool handle and knock on the outside painted surfaces of the hull to make sure there is no hidden rot. If there is a dull thud instead of a hard "clonk", press hard on the spot and if it does give way easily, strip the paint and have a closer look - it may be a rotted patch.
As the boat has inspection ports in the side tanks and stern, you can also hold your camera into these and take some interior pictures to determine the condition of the hull, as I have done (see fifth post in thread http://forum.mirrordiscussforum.org/node/230 ).
What's the hull/sail number (embossed into the inner side of the transom, probably on the port side as in my boat)? That would confirm its age to some degree. If you don't mind, we can then enter your boat in the Roll Call.
Cheers and successful sanding!

Gernot H.

curlew's picture

I have found that dark spots are not necessarily rotted - it might just be staining. Once having rubbed down to bare wood, the dark spot can be bleached out using oxalic acid. In the UK, oxalic acid is sold for this purpose and I have not found any other substance which will work.
David

smilicus's picture

Hello Gernot

Please add me to the Roll Coll. What is your Email adress so I can forward the needed info.

smilicus's picture

Thanks for the advice guys. There are luckily no dark spots so far and the inside via the inspection portholes. The wood seems to Clonk too, so think I should be ok in that department.

There is just one patch that the previous owner did (a very sloppy but joint patching) where there was a small rotten area, but that I will redo and do a good step joint rather than a scarf joint...I have found that scarf joints don't always get a proper fit due to the sides that is at a angled and hence rather opting for a step joint. Step Joints should give the same contact area as a scarf if done right so should be sufficient. What do you think?

Started to remove all the fittings...not many stripped screws, so got all the blocks and cleats of in an hour. Now just to remove the inspection portholes and tank plugs so the sanding can start. Will post a few pics after sanding this weekend.

Till later

PuffinInTegel's picture

My only problem in getting a proper fit is that i couldn't get the matching plywood for patching (the 3-ply stuff with the thicker centre core ply is not available in real marine quality here) so I was using a thinner 5-ply patch. I didn't fair the result very well, so it looks a bit amateurish but has held for years now.
There are two pictures of work in progress in the file
http://www.hirsinger-translations.de/gast/boating/patch.pdf
I had to do a similar operation some years later, including replacing the entire outer gunwale rail. This is what it looks like on the outside:
Name and patch
If you look at the top edge closely, you can detect the different plywood thicknesses and the patch shows around where the boat's name is. I suppose a bit of epoxy filler and sanding could have produced a better result here. You can see the different colours of the plywood in some of the scenes taken aboard in the "JollenFlottille" videos on YouTube.
Wishing you all success!

Gernot H.

curlew's picture

I made a video of repairing a hole in the hull using a patch:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JcAB1-RzCY

david

smilicus's picture

Hello Guys

THank for all the input. I have made all the preparation for the step joint, but due to work constraints, I had to leave the epoxing for the weekend.

Here is a shot of the previous owners attempt at patching the hull - used exterior ply, screws, glue and wood filler...not safe

Old Patch

New hole cut since there was more rot and step made

New Hole

Step visible on hull and patch piece

Steps

Dry fitted

Dry fit

I will fiberglass the seams of the joint for additional strength and srew the patch to the slats too. Better safe than sinking.

sail_and_oar's picture

Lucky boat, some arn't so fortunate.

May you both enjoy years of sailing.

Cliff

PuffinInTegel's picture

That's a real work of art!

Gernot H.

smilicus's picture

Thanks guys, will keep you posted on the progress...Saturday Morning is patch/epoxy time.

smilicus's picture

Hello Guys

Patch is done and now time for the fairing to begin. The weekend was a real scorcher...38 C plus (100 F) , so needless to say I did not spend too much time in the garage on the Mirror. The Beach was calling

I epoxied the patch in place early morning and the fit is nice and snug. Started Fairing last night and all looks well. After fairing I will epoxy the glass tape over the seams, sand some more and then paint. Will post pictures later

Just a quick questions...how can I tell if the boathas 1k or 2K paint??? I need to repaint but dont want to sand the boat back to wood. Is it ok to assume, since the boat is quite old that is was a 1K paint?

Another note on the refurb - Removed the stern Ply since it was not in good nick, so will replace with the newly cut ply the weekend...will post pictures later.

PuffinInTegel's picture

Perhaps the following advice is superfluous for you, if it is, it may help others all the same.
As Mirrors are kept out of the water most of the time, paint type is not critical. I even had a top coat of water-based acrylic paint as the black bottom of my boat for several years and it held quite well.
Personally I shun 2-component products as I suspect they are wasteful (?) and more difficult to handle. In recent times I have used International 1-component products (Pre-kote primer and Toplac) which are fairly expensive but give a brilliant glossy finish even if applied with a brush and are then fairly scratch-resistant and long-lasting.
However I do believe that any good quality outdoor paint can be used on a boat that is not permanently in the water and kept in a dry and shady place when not in use.
You seem to have sanded most of the hull fairly thoroughly and I would expect that a single primer application and light sanding after that will give a good surface for the finishing coats (I applied 2 coats of Toplac).
If in doubt, do the adhesive tape test: stick some strong adhesive tape (gaffer tape or packaging tape ) to your boat at several points and pull it off a right angles. If that peels the pain off, you need to scrape/sand/burn it off.

Gernot H.

curlew's picture

I recently tried Dulux Multi Surface Primer/Undercoat. It is water based paint and will go over existing gloss, bare wood and fibreglass. I give two coats then used International Toplac on top.
David

smilicus's picture

OR should I say Sand Sand Sand. The last week was quite hectic at work , but I still put in the hours on the Mirror that was needed...hence only a quick update with no pictures.

Patch is done, New Stern is done, all the small imperfections/scratches/chips/broken bits are fixed and now the time has finally come to Varnish the deck and paint the hull.

Will post pictures later the week.

Another questions - how many coats of Varnish for the mirror deck. My grand dad always believed in 7, but with today's quality of marine varnish, will 4 -5 coats do?

smilicus's picture

Hello Guys. Here are finally a few photos of what I have been up to the weekend:

Patch just Fiber Glassed
Patch just Fiber Glassed

Fiber Glassed Patch Sanded
Fiber Glassed Patch Sanded

Patch form the inside before any sanding or additional beam added
Patch form the inside before any sanding or additional beam added

Transom removed due to some rot
Transom removed due to some rot

New Transom fitted and ready for primer
New Transom fitted and ready for primer

50% sanded
50% sanded

Deck sanded
Deck sanded

Tonight is the last bit of Sanding, then time to varnish the deck and cockpit and paint the hull

Very impressive can not wait to see the finished product, especially with you in the Mirror on the water Pete

smilicus's picture

Hello Pete.

Can't wait to get sailing. I am working towards a 7 May 2014 launch date, so how I get finished by then.

she is coming on a treat , and that hull patch is an excellent piece of work , well done indeed
interested as to what tool you used to get the join edges ship shape on the patch, or was it pure elbow grease ?

smilicus's picture

Hello

Made a step joint with the aid of a rotor and flush bit...set to the desired depth so both the hulls step and the patch would be half of the thickness. Then it was time to epoxy the patch in place and after hardening I sanded the edges flush and then fiberglassed the seams of the patch with 75mm fiberglass tape and epoxy. Then sanded edges of the seams flushed again so you don't see the ridges of where the Fiberglass tape starts.

The inside I just filled the gaps with epoxy mixed with sawdust and sanded it flush with the hull.

Hope this helps

Neat job
Very neat job,well done I wish I had your patience

smilicus's picture

Hello guys. Started the varnishing process. Tomorrow will be the last coat of varnish, then the boat gets turned around to paint the hull.

The boat current dolly is still made of wood and very rotten. Do any of you have plans for a basic steel dolly?

No. But I made mine out of pvc tubing an it has held up since I made it in 1984.
Pete

smilicus's picture

Hello Guys

Thinking of making a dolly like this one:

Dolly

smilicus's picture

Hello Guys

Been quite, since most of my spare time was spent in the garage. Here is a quick update in photos:

undercoat

stern undercoat

Under coat done

Top Coat

In the background you can see Fireball 7747

Decals/Stripes

Some decals - white stripes at the stern

Final product - Stripes

Stripes done. Nice clean lines thanks to the blue masking tape

Mellow Yellow

She has a name - MELLOW YELLOW

Great job

PuffinInTegel's picture

Wonderful ... another boat saved!
I've sent a personal mail requesting you to state how much information is to be disclosed on the roll call.

Cheers,

Gernot H.

smilicus's picture

Dry rigged the boat this weekend to see if all the lines and blocks are in the right place

Ready to sail

This weekend the sailing start...whoohooooo

Your rigged Mirror looks good to me.
Pete

PuffinInTegel's picture

Judging by the stiff glossy material, those sails look brand new and the number on the jib looks like she's been raced !
Have fun!
Cheers,
Gernot

smilicus's picture

Hi Gernot

I myself was surprised when I got the sails out to see how new they still are. The owner prior to the previous one (who never sailed her) was going to race her and got her setup with Spinn chute, etc but had to sell her since he left the country.

So cant wait to get on the water

sail_and_oar's picture

I'm sorry

I really didn't want to

but I couldn't help it...

There are a couple of creases in your sail and with a couple of little tweaks I think you can make them go away.

I think you are missing a tack line (a line which is tied through the tack cringle and around the mast) and that your main halyard has been tensioned in the wrong order.

Perhaps I'm wrong in which case my sincere apologies.

Slacken off the boom outhaul and tie a line through the tack of the sail and around the mast so the luff of the sail is 20 to 25 mm from the mast.

Slacken off the tack downhaul, the kicker and the mainsheet, pull hard on the main halyard and cleat it off. The gaff should rise up the mast a bit and lie more parrallel to it.

You can now tension the luff with the tack downhaul and the foot with the boom outhaul. If you tension them both quite hard a crease should appear down the luff of the sail and another along the foot of the sail. The luff lacing might need tightening up a touch.

The sails look good, your jib is the type our local racers use. The luff is shorter than mine and the clew lower.

I think you will really enjoy your Mirror. The Mirror has the best manners of anything I have sailed.

And well done for all your hard work.

The stormy weather we've had this winter seems to have ended. I've been plucking up the courage to look under my boat cover and see how many repairs my Mirror will need before I can use it. No doubt with a little love it will be fine.

Best wishes,

Cliff

smilicus's picture

Hello Cliff

Thank you for the advice, still new to the Mirror Setup. Will take all your advice into account when I go sailing this weekend...looks like the weather is going to be just perfect...light breeze and 30 C temps.

I live in a security complex and am not actually allowed to raise the mast, etc. So did a quick rig (5min) to see if all the lines are correct. When at the club the weekend, I will take all your advice into account and hopefully look like I know what I am doing, hehe

Let's get sailing

Johan

sail_and_oar's picture

I'm sure once you get on the water everything will seem familiar. It's very similar to all the other fractional sloops I've sailed. The jib halyard is a nice touch and allows you to adjust the tension of the sailcloth on the jib luff without crawling out onto the foredeck to fiddle with awkward corner lashings.

Enjoy,

Cliff

smilicus's picture

The past weekend I finally got Mellow Yellow (Mirror #40819) on the water. Light breeze, 7 - 12 knots SSE, SE.

The wife and I had an absolute ball of a time and definitely prefer the Mirror to our Fireball.
More our kind of sailing or maybe we are just getting old, hehe.

Rigging
Rigging

Table Mountain
Sailing with Table Mountain as a backdrop

PuffinInTegel's picture

You have beautiful sailing grounds ...
Is that a bronze-anodized finish on the mast?

Cheers,
Gernot